I have been a bit busy lately. I accepted a part time job as a cook in a bio restaurant cooking for lunch, what  is, as you might know, supposed to be the principal meal in France :-)

There is one thing worth mentioning on this blog about this activity, and that touches the basic issue of most of my messages: economies of scale.

That is: it is difficult under present economic conditions NOT to make use of economies of scale. Trying to maximize economies of scale goes against the heart of sustainable farming. Ploughing with a large tractor compacts the ground. A large distribution network increases the number of transport  kilometers incorporated in food. The specialization of labour makes the farmer losing sight of the interconnectedness of the ecosystem on his farm. The reduction of farmers within a certain region reduces also the number of experiments being done on daily basis that tests the adaptability of the methods to the regional conditions.

Now cooking:  economies of scale have brought us the miracle of kitchens without cooking. It is more a kind of assembly. I believe it was Mc Donalds who first made this concept into a success. Or was it the Russian soup kitchen? It is hard to deny that the taste of food is suffering. But what the heck: it is not too bad, it is way cheaper, control can be done more systematic, and it is quick! If it is only taste: it would have been an issue for elitists. But I am afraid it is not. Now the economies of scale of farming and the food industry is of course closely linked, or already one and the same. A large scale, AFFORDABLE, restaurant can hardly deal with a lot of suppliers. It makes the system too complicated and risky. So it tends to avoid small-scale farmers, unless these farmers manage to unite their marketing channels. Which is for THEM a very complicated issue. In practice it doesn’t happen. Small-scale farming is therefore supported by well intended, mostly well to do, citizens. Who motivate their choice mostly by arguments of taste and nutritional value.  These are not my most important arguments, I find them hard to proof, which makes it difficult to identify myself with our most important supporters!

My quest in my kitchen is to OPTIMISE economies of scale up to a point it is not jeopardizing the sustainability of the farms that are supplying our restaurant. But under present economic conditions it is, like small-scale farming, in fact an impossible job, dependent on well doers and clients that happen to like our menu so much that they are willing to pay the “value added”.  So, here I am pealing my potatoes, carrots and onions everyday for a 40 people crowd or so. Thinking about a piece of equipment that our local vegetable shop back in the 70’s already invested in: a potato pealing machine…
 
 

The biggest producer of Camembert, The Lactalis group, is forced by the French consumers, to return to the original quality definition of the Normandian Camembert, the last camembert that just until March this year, was supposed to be made of raw milk. Lactalis is the number two milk processing company in the world, with over 30.000 employees (1).

Earlier this year they successfully lobbied within the Normandian AOC quality committee to accept their new technology consisting of moderate heating and "laboratory made” types of bacteria. Lactalis came up with this high tech solution because they found it too risky to sell raw milk cheese in supermarkets because of possible Listeria poisoning. Now the brand new factory has to close its doors because French consumers are not eating it (2).


Reducing substantially the varieties of bacteria and fungi’s in our food will ruin our immune system, especially the ones of our children. (for example one GMO type instead of 100's of local types in one cheese). This is the view of the famous Pasteur Institute (3) expressed in a movie made especially about raw cheeses in France “Ces fromages qu'on assassine! ” (These are the cheeses we kill!) and a radio programme on a conference about the beneficial effects of bacteria in food on the immune system.  How many people died of Listeria in raw milk cheese? I have heard about one case that triggered the whole anti-raw milk movement in France. Probably there are a few more, but how many people in the future will have allergies (or die) because of a not properly functioning immune system? ? At the moment 25% of the French population suffer from some kind of allergy. Recent studies show, like was found in the Pasteur Institute, that raw milk (products) for children in cities are the one of the most efficient and practical means to build a good immune system! (4)


Luckily the French consumers got back their senses, and decided en masse not to buy the new product. Probably more because a typical  produit regional was in danger than because of health reasons, but àla! The workers of the closed factory are said to be able to continue working in one of the other many factories of Lactalis. This news will certainly reinforce the Slow Food network in France who has been fighting hard for Lait Cru, and managed to gather 20.000 signatures for the European Union in order to raise awareness on this issue (5).

1) http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Camembert_de_Normandie
2) www.lemonde.fr/archives/article/2008/09/27/lactalis
3) Documentary of Joël Santoni and Jean Charles Deniau with Périco Légasse and Erik Svensson. See: 
http://programmes.france3.fr/documentaires
4) Doctor Dominique Angèle Vuitton, Emeritus Professor in Immunology of the Université de Franche-Comté and Xavier Bertrand, Microbiologist in the “Service d’hygiène hospitalière et d’épidémiologie moléculaire" of the CHU in Besançon cited on the French radio: www.canalacademie.com/Fromages-au-lait-cru-amis-ou.html
5) www.slowfood.fr